February 21, 2013

YVR to WLG - Part 3

Ed. Note: The following post and those thereafter in this series are copied word for word from my paper journal. I have only edited my thoughts for punctuation and grammar.

[April 27th]
A rainy morning in Puriri Bay

The next morning brought rain showers and cool weather. Although we were originally dismayed at not waking to sun and warmth, as we had become so accustomed, we both realized how lucky we had been to date with the late April weather. I had originally come expecting the rain showers and cool weather that Vancouver is known for, and that NZ in the winter is also known for. So, to have gotten so many warm and sunny days to begin with was certainly a treat. 

However, as we set out for the Bay of Islands, and eventually our DOC near Cape Reinga, the clouds cleared and we were treated, again, to a full day of sun and open windows in the camper.

Our route took us up the East Coast through Russell and the infamous Bay of Islands. ALthough this much hyped destination would be a great jumping off point for an overnight cruise on one of many party boats, the area seemed very quiet at this time of year. Summer had brought the tourists, now the fall welcomed the explorers...
Taupiri Beach, just a grassy knoll away....

Getting artistic on Taupiri Beach
Snapping up the beauty on Taupiri Beach
In fact, just after leaving the DOC, Michelle and I came across Taupiri Beach, a small turn off on the side of the road with promising views. The enticement from the road side only grew as we wound our way down a grassy knoll and onto the dark sands of one of the most picturesque beaches I've seen. Straight out of a movie shoot, Taupiri Beach offered a view so serene, one could not imagine something so peaceful. With an overhanging tree providing shade and a comfy place to sit, plus the pounding surf, I could easily have stayed there all day! Yet there was much more to explore and so on we went.

Stalking the surf in Matauri Bay
Dropping in, Matauri Bay
After a ferry ride (Michelle's first car ferry) and a detour out a promising loop in the track, we came over a ridge to discover one of the coolest surf beaches I've ever seen. Matauri Bay was situated in the middle of nowhere, but the locals sure knew of it. As the 3m swells pounded into the shore, Michelle and I enjoyed a break from driving to snap a few shots of the surfers enjoying the last rays of the afternoon. The view from the beach itself was stunning and it was only the promise of a good Thai dinner that pulled us back to the road.

Classic kiwi beach scenes, Matauri Bay
Lonely Planet suggested a place in Mangonui that was renowned for its quality Thai fare. It sure didn't disappoint. With dishes named 'Sexy Little Duck' and 'Sweet Honey', how can you go wrong?! Both Michelle's noodle dish and my stir-fry were spot on and certainly worth the extravagant prices they were asking. Oh, and the ginger beer? Whoa, one more please!

Back on the road, the cover of darkness saw us again arrive at our next DOC. After a long drive up to Cape Reinga, we were ready to crash and check out the most accessible northern point in NZ.

But nature would not have it so easy. It would appear we parked in the mosquito epicenter of NZ, if not the world. The van was swarmed by the buzzing and biting insects and they somehow seemed to find a way into the sealed van, even after we were convinced the last one had been crushed between hand and roof...

[April 28th] 

After a restless sleep, kept awake by the fear of being sucked dry by morning, I was happy to talk to the guy in the camper next to ours who reported killing 200 skeeters over the course of the night. I'm sure Michelle and I's count wouldn't have been much different from his (assuming similar exaggerations), but it all certainly made for a memorable night!

A sleepless night in Cape Reinga provided this view in the morning.


And so, after quickly wolfing down breakfast (cereal in yogurt and a banana with OJ for me; muffins and potato chips for Michelle) we continued the short trek to Cape Reinga. Though not the most Northerly Point in NZ, as this title goes to North Cape (accessible only by boat), it is the most Northerly our graffitied van would go. The views were mind blowing and it was incredible to see the Tasman sea in the West crash into the Pacific from the East. Turning water, sheer cliffs and a beautiful lighthouse all made for a great photo shoot and an even better place to practice a few yoga movements to loosen up the body. 
Cape Reinga and the clashing seas

Climbing back into the van, I knew we had a long drive ahead of us before the next DOC in the Waipoura Forest. Following the roads South along the West coast, we passed onto Ninety Mile Beach (actually only 88kms long) and across Hokianga Harbour via another (expensive) car ferry. Once on the Kauri coast and in the Waipoura forest, Michelle and I took the short trek from the roadside parking lot, to the King of the Forest, Tane Mahuta, and the Four Sisters, the giant Kauri trees that bring the tourists by the droves in the warmer months. These behemoths of the forest are native to New Zealand and at 51m high, are nothing to pass by. Unable to fit the massive trees into our lenses, Michelle and I spent out time with the giants practicing the Tree Pose (yoga) in front of the iconic NZ trees!

Finally, a long, windy and gravelly road brought us to Trounson Park, our DOC for the night and our first DOC with power available for use. Oh, and don't let me forget the hot showers! I hadn't showered (still haven't actually as I write this before dinner...) since leaving Hekerua Lodge on Waiheke!








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